|Severely Modified Harness|
|Stock Wiring Harness|
After we got the car running, we wrapped up all the wiring and secured it so it wont be flopping around on track. The number one way to decrease the reliability of an electrical or plumbing system is to let it move around and get chafed/pinched. Zipties and edging material are your friend when it comes to securing wiring and plumbing.
|A look under the dash|
We mounted a raceBATTERY in the spot where the AC blower assembly used to live. This moves a little bit of weight forward and opposite from the driver.
We mounted the battery with an Xtender Bracket with no kill switch. We have two other kill switches mounted on this car. One is outside and will poke through the right side access panel at the front of the car and the other is located where the left hand driver side AC vent used to be. This configuration will allow the engine to be shut down from outside or inside the vehicle. We chose to use two of these killswitches from Pegasus Auto Racing. Properly wired, these switches will completely isolate the battery and stop the engine.
|Kill Switch Wiring Diagram|
|A view from the driver seat|
The car has been missing a steering wheel since we ripped it off early in the tear down. We finally replaced it with a Sparco Cup Wheel. This saves a few pounds of weight and allows the addition of a quick release. We do not recommend deleting your air bag in a street car, but in a race car, we consider it a necessity. We would normally run a hubQR2 but we had a sweet quick release from old stock that we decided to use. This release flips the wheel up, rather than removing it completely, this makes it easier to get in the car but the wheel stays attached to the column at all times. We can still get these hubs so if you are interested, let us know. Yes, they are more expensive than the regular quick release kits. 8^)
That is all we are going to share for now. Look for another update next week.