111tank2 - Track Testing Results

 We had great results on track this past weekend after two days of track testing.  Our new baffled fuel tank for the S2 Lotus Elise/Exige now features a ball check valve. ProAlloy have been successfully using this design on their tanks for years.  We've installed several of their tanks onto Cup cars and 211s with excellent results.

We ran the car on two days on two different track configurations at SMMR.  Mansell C is shown below.  

We ran the exact corner where the car fuel starved with half a tank in Dec.  See above.  This is Pahrump 2 - which is a fast left hand sweeper that starts right after the equivalent right hander.  The picture of Nick's Elise is at the spot shown on the track map.

Now it runs perfectly down to about 1.5gallons remaining BEFORE it starts to sputter.  We experienced that twice and in both cases, the car took 8.5 gallons of fuel when we went to fill it up.  I am happy that this solution will be a good one for most of you running on the street and track.  It retains the factory safety and emissions plumbing and fixes the starvation at the source of the problem.

We will go into production on this latest design.  It will now be called the 111tank2.

Lotus 111 Uprights - Street & Track

We have kicked off production of our street uprights.  One of our goals this year is to look for more obscure ways to save unsprung weight on the Elise/Exige.  Unsprung weight savings have been a major focus of ours for over 20years.  Our ULTRAdiscs and RS343 are the lightest components of their type for these cars.  The uprights are the next opportunity that we need to address - at least for street cars.

 These are a derivation of our raceUPRIGHTs.  Our raceUPRIGHTs are a proven solution that we introduced on our first ArtCar (see above) that we campaigned in Lotus Cup.  We saved nearly 9lbs with these uprights.  These allowed us to run the cars even lower while leaving the suspension geometry intact.  You can lower these cars too much and ruin the handling of the car.  Our raceUPRIGHTs allow the car to run low so we can get the benefit of a low CG and better aero.  Another cool advantage is that our uprights allow you to bolt on the front 2 piston calipers onto the rear.  We did just that plus our 308BBK in the ArtCar and could out brake 211s!

Street cars don't need to run that low.  But unsprung weight savings is still a nice thing to have as there are really no reliability issues that you will face.  Of course durability can be an issue if you attempt to go too light - we don't want it to break just as you cross the finish line!  😉

We are producing our first set for testing.  Ours will also allow you to install the 2 piston caliper at the rear - though we may ultimately offer this as an option since it will add additional weight to the uprights.  I think that most street cars run perfectly fine with the stock rear calipers - assuming good pads are installed.  This picture below is the machining that is underway.  We will be testing them later this Winter.

The ArtCar2 above also runs the raceUPRIGHTs

Lotus Elise Front Clam Grill Replacement Tip

Look Ma no....

The small grills that 'protect' the oil cooler are know to break off.  Replacing them requires removing the clam.  This is a process that takes hours so many folks simply live with a missing grill.  Jorge came up with a faster way to replace it but it does require drilling into a hidden part of the clam.  This is NOT a method for those of you who want to keep their car 100% original.  For those of you with Outlaws, this is a reasonable solution...

This Blog shows the images of the modifications without step by step written instructions.  This work should only be done if you are mechanically inclined with at least intermediate skills and appropriate tools.

Tools needed

A longer screw will be required

Note measure for hole position

Drill at an angle.  A long bit is required

Note position of hole.

Screw/washer is installed in this image

Screw is run through the plastic grill

Cover hole with vinyl decal or rubber plug

Rubber Brake Line Collapse - What Causes This?

 Light, simple, safe. We obsess over those three words. But even the humble parts—like rubber brake hoses—age out. A recent case on a very low-mile ’05 Elise reminded me how quietly time can catch up and change how a car stops.  Disaster struck this car when the rear driver side caliper locked up.  Fortunately the owner was able to nurse the car home safely and have it towed to us for repair.  

Symptoms were odd: only one rear corner dragged; eventually it freed itself. Fluid was old but in OK condition. The car still had its original OEM rubber brake lines. My working theory: internal hose aging created a one-way restriction—easy pressure in, slow/no return—so the caliper stayed applied longer than it should resulting in a smokey brake and a fully locked up corner!

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How OEM Rubber Brake Hoses Are Built

An Elise OEM hose looks simple, but it’s a multi-layer composite that works hard every time you hit the middle pedal.

• Inner liner (EPDM): Carries brake fluid; resists heat/chemicals.
• Reinforcement braid: Limits expansion under pressure.
• Outer jacket: Protects from heat, ozone, abrasion.

Nothing exotic here—and that’s the point. It’s good, durable, serviceable… but it still ages and why we wrote a previous: BLOG

What Age Does to Brake Hoses

Outer cracking is easy to spot. The sneaky failure is inside the hose—where you can’t see it.

Failure mode	How it develops	Real-world symptoms
Internal collapse / check-valve effect	Inner liner hardens, micro-cracks, or delaminates; a flap or swelling narrows the bore.	One corner drags, brakes feel uneven, wheel runs hot; caliper may “release itself” later.
Reinforcement fatigue	Braid loses stiffness after years of heat cycles and moisture.	Softer pedal, more travel, vague response under repeated stops.
Outer jacket degradation	UV, ozone, road spray, or heat near rotors/exhaust.	Visible cracking, surface bubbling, damaged sections near fittings.
Fluid & moisture interaction	Old DOT 4 absorbs water; moisture + time accelerates internal deterioration.	Lower boiling point, discoloration, more fade when hot.

Yes, even Exiges...

Why only one side? Hoses age unevenly: routing, heat (exhaust proximity), flex cycles, and tiny manufacturing variances mean one line can fail years before its twin.  See the picture below of the Elise that failed and note the sourcs of heat.

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OEM vs Upgrade Options

• Fresh OEM rubber: Restores factory feel; perfectly fine for road cars.

• InoKinetic braided / stainless kit: Improved pedal consistency, durability, and peace of mind. Designed specifically for Elise/Exige fitment.  Our QWKbleed SS Lines are worth a look - see them: HERE

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Elise Brake Hose Refresh: Quick Checklist

• Replace all four hoses together. Don’t chase symptoms one corner at a time.
• Flush with fresh DOT 4. Bleed thoroughly; check for equal flow at each corner.  We like: Motul
• Inspect calipers. Verify pistons, seals, and slide pins; address any asymmetry you find.
• Route & secure. Ensure full droop/compression clearance, no twist, no chafe.
• Road-test & heat-cycle. A/B stops, then re-check for drag or wheel-to-wheel temperature differences
• Set an interval. For street cars: consider 10–15 years as a practical horizon; sooner for heavy track use.

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Bottom Line

Yes, even new Emiras will eventually succumb...

Rubber brake lines don’t ask for attention—until they do. If your Elise or Exige is still on originals, consider this your nudge. Replace the hoses, flush the fluid, verify the calipers, and get back to what the car was built for: precise, confidence-inspiring braking that lets you carry speed where it counts. 

Lotus Elise and Exige Stage 2 & Stage 3 Developments

 We have sourced a new cold air intake (CAI) from ITG.  We had worked with these guys back in 2005 but the intakes flowed too much air!  We did not have the tuning ability to deal with the added airflow so our car would get too lean.  Now that we have proper tuning ability, they are back on our shelf as I love the better filtration that their filters offer.

We have also sourced new headers that offer a decat or sportcat option.  These are made here in the US so we can avoid those pesky tariff and exchange rate headaches that are a constant challenge with this business.  The quality is great so we are pleased with the prospects.  Plus they offer a EPA Certified Catalytic Converter which will allow many of you to stay emissions legal in your state.

We know many clients are looking for solutions beyond a Stage1.  Both the CAI and Exhaust solutions will complement our other options.  We know that many of you are looking for NA solutions but some of you with SC are also interested in upgrades.  We are running the 111RS with the CAI, Header and Decat now with the KATANA3.  Much like our previous KATANA265, this new solution essentially features the same types of hardware with our updated tuning ability.

Brent will be in late Aug and we will begin to tune our cars with these various hardware options.

ABS Block Delete for S2 Elise and Exige

 Some of you know that we are working on a simple solution to delete the ABS on the Elise/Exige.  The stock ABS comes off a Minivan from the 90s and is not a great performer.  'Black Ice" mode is a common issue for aggressive drivers - especially in bumpy conditions.

We have been working with Girodisc on an idea that would delete the ABS system and replace it with a simple block that would route the fluid to the front and rear circuits via a bias adjuster.  This would allow the driver to adjust the bias to his liking. 

We received the ABS Delete Block (need a better name!) to install.  It is on our ArtCar2 and has seen some quick street testing around our shop.  The block originally came with the bias adjuster connected to it but we decided to install a remote bias adjuster so we could place it in the cabin within reach of a driver.  The servo remains in the system but you lose the speedo.  This car runs the AiM MX2E so we are using the GPS antennae for speed.

The install is slick and I'm looking forward to getting it to the track to test.

Watch Out for Aftermarket Sensors

 Aftermarket sensor are not always assured to work.  We have an Elise in here that was not running properly.  The client sent the car to two different shops including a Lotus Dealer and was unable to get it sorted.  

We got the car and after checking the usual components, Jorge noticed that the Oil Pressure sensor on the VVL looked a bit different.  Upon closer inspection, you can see the orifices are different sizes.  We installed a factory sensor and the car started to behave as expected!

Aftermarket on the left

Oil Pressure Sensors Are NOT Interchangeable!

 We discovered an oil pressure issue on a 2ZZGE-equipped Elise.  It turns out, there are two interchangeable sensors on the engine that will allow the car to start and run.  In other words, they can be screwed in and plugged into harness in either position!  But if they are switched, the car will throw a code when revved into the second cam.  

Other than being different colors and having different numbers printed on the sensors, both oil pressure sensors visually display very similar characteristics and use the same style electrical connection.  

They are boxed in red above

The black Pressure Switch sensor is supposed to be installed in the head and the gray Sending Unit goes into the oil filter housing.  

We found the Toyota part #s as well.  Se below:

Fuel Cell Are A Consummable!

 We're servicing a race Elise and noticed a strong smell of fuel.  Turns out the car had a fuel cell and it was leaking.  

This particular tank was made way back in 2009!  Generally they will have a 5 year life so inspect yours.

This client wisely chose to have us install one of our baffled 111tanks so this would no longer be a headache.  We also upgraded his stock pump to our DW65c Fuel Pump.

Of couse, his car was missing some key bits but we were able to source the parts and plumb up our tank so it would be effective and safe.

HVAC Cavity Drain Holes

In the last year, we have seen a few Elise/Exige cars with drain holes that were either not drilled or not fully drilled out.  We would encourage you to inspect your car to confirm that the holes were drilled correctly.  Your fan blower is in jeopordy of failing if this is not done.

What?

The S2 Elise and Exige should have drain holes drilled into the chassis.  This was a Dealer installed Technical Service Bulletin 2007/01 issued by Lotus Cars.  The TSB is posted at the end of this Blog post.

Why?

These holes allow water to drain from the HVAC cavity.  If water is allowed to collect in this space, the electronics for the blower will begin to corrode and then fail.

How?

At the front of your chassis you can inspect to see if these holes are present.  Take a 6mm rod and see if it will go all the way into the cavity.  If not, you can drill it yourself with a 6mm drill bit.  Note the 10mm limiter suggested by the TSB below.

Updated Ride Height & Alignment Suggestions

Our Street Ride Height recommendation has been update to reflect our new thinking for improved clearance on some of our ever deteriorating road conditions.  We raised our recommendation by 5mm.

A proper alignment is critical to the performance of your lightweight sports cars.  These cars are very sensitive and respond well to changes in the suspension setup.  These recommendations are based on experience we've gathered since 2004 with the Lotus 111 platform.  Your results may vary so we suggest you start here and tweak as your driving style demands.  

Make sure that your car's suspension components are in mechanically sound condition.  Check your ball joints, toe links, track ends, etc to ensure that nothing is worn out.  See our 60pt Prep Sheet for a great reference.  Consider our Suspension Refresh Kit if you discover worn-out parts have a higher mileage car.

Recommended settings for an Elise/Exige street/track car with R-compound tires.         

                          Front                 Rear
Ride height    130 +/- 3mm    135 +/- 3mm
Camber          -2.2° to -2.5°    -2.4° to -2.7°

Toe (total)       0                       3mm total toe-in

Our ArtCar is running even lower thank to our raceUPRIGHTs

Recommended settings for a track Elise/Exige car with slick tires.

                           Front                      Rear
Ride height    120 +/- 3mm              125 +/- 3mm
Camber            -3°                             -3°
Toe (total)       0 - 1mm toe out        3mm total toe-in

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Follow These Steps:

1.      Set the ride height.  

2.      Set camber.

3.      Set toe.

• To set the camber, remove all your stock shims as well as the ABS shim. You may need to install FASTarms or machine your stock steering arms to obtain optimal camber.  Remember to use thread locker on the steering arm bolts.
• While a lower ride height is possible, we find the suspension works best at these recommended heights and the chance of scraping the bottom of your car is less.
• Write Down All of Your Changes!  Write down your alignment settings and then note how the car performs. Write down any changes you make and record the results. This is the best way to get the car dialed in exactly how you like it.  Use our Alignment/Set-up Sheet to help keep tabs on the changes.

Lotus Pedal Box Modification for Long Legs

 

We have a 6'6" client who loves his Elise so much that he is willing to go to great lengths to fit in both of his Elises (one street and one track). He is a fairly proportional gent so the challenge is both legroom and headroom. We have the headroom solved but the legs required more drastic measures.

The pic to the left shows some of the modifications we made to an OEM pedal box that we bought. His originals remain untouched. We've initially found an additional 2" but he needs more. I think this will work for 90% of you who need additional legroom.

The picture below show him with the clutch depressed fully. He needs a bit more.  We've take additional measurements and believe we can sneak an additonal 1-2".  Stay tuned...