Beware of Used Wheels!

Buying a set of used wheels is a good way to save some money but you need to be careful. If you are counting on these wheels to hold up to performance driving on the street or track, then you need to be especially careful. We have seen used wheels that appear to be good but are compromised. Keep reading to learn how we have repaired a forged wheel to cosmetic excellence but we would not dare to use it aggressively in the canyons or track.

We were able to repair (with a local specialist) a forged factory LSS wheel to an excellent cosmetic standard but would not trust it for serious use.

We bought a crashed S240 Exige and salvaged the wheels off of the car. The rears were in excellent shape but the fronts, where the car was crashed, were in unacceptable shape. I asked our trusted wheel refinisher if he could repair these wheels and he was confident that he could. I asked him to go ahead and fix them as we could use some wheels to use in the shop to roll around cars that are in various states of repair.

Here is the crashed car and wheel:

First, the wheel was straightened and then welded to fill in the missing metal.

Our supplier was then able to machine the edge acceptably and refinish the wheel. I asked him to paint the wheels bright orange so that we would not accidentally sell them.

Why is this a concern? Welding onto the wheel will elevate the metal in this area to temps above the anneal temp range of 600-700deg F. When the aluminum gets annealed, it begins to soften. Aluminum melts at 1200 deg F and is approached in the welding process. Since these are forged wheels, this welded area will get annealed thus making it softer than the rest of the wheel. This could ultimately cause a failure. We believe it is not worth taking the risk on a car that is run aggressively.

It is critical that you know how a used wheel was repaired. If it was repaired, it would be worth knowing if any welding was involved. Wheels are considered a consumable on a track car (or any really) but it is also a critical safety component that is holding you to the ground. Are you sure you want to take the chance on those cheap used wheels with unknown history?

Balanced Approach to Tuning

I’ve been tuning the 111 platform since 2004 and have learned many things - good and bad. We love helping clients understand what has worked for us and save them the headaches that come from trial and error. Many years ago, we put together a chart to reflect our philosophy when it comes to tuning the Elise/Exige - especially for track use. Safety (driver & car) became our primary emphasis with performance secondary. We summarized it in the chart you see below.

Tire Sizes - Elise/Exige

I had previously written about tire selection in a Blog found: HERE. This Blog entry lists the many sizes of tires that are possibilities - especially if you have different wheels or want to try other tire brands. Stock sizes for a Sport package Elise or an Exige are: 195/50R16 front & 225/45R17 rear. A key dimension to use in selection is the Overall Diameter - shown below as ‘Circumference’. Ideally, you will choose a tire size that is as close to the stock dimension as possible.

SIZE SIDEWALL RADIUS DIAMETER CIRCUMFERENCE RIM WIDTH

205/50R15 4" 11.5" 23.10    

195/50ZR16 3.8" 11.8" 23.70 74.4" 6-7-7.5"

205/45R16 3.6" 11.6" 23.3 73.1" 6.5-7-7.5"

225/45ZR16 4" 12" 24 74.4" 7-7.5-8.5"

225/50R16 4.4" 12.4" 24.9 78.1" 6-7-8"

245/45R16 4.3" 12.3" 24.7 77.5" 7.5-8-9"

225/45R17 4.4" 12.4" 25 78.1" 7-7.5-8.5"

235/40R17 3.7" 12.2" 24.4 76.7" 8-8.5-9.5"

235/45ZR17 4.2" 12.7" 25.3 79.6" 7.5-8.9"

245/40R17 3.9" 12.4" 24.7 77.6" 8-8.5-9.5"

255/40R17 4" 12.5" 25.1 78.6" 8.5-9-10"

If you want to try different sizes, it is always a good policy to change the front and rear in the same amount or ratio. DImensions provided by manufacturers can vary from company to company. We don’t recommend mixing tire models or brands from front to rear.

Our favorite sizes are stock or 205/50R15 front and 245/45R16 rear.

stock tire sizes here with slightly wider wheels: 16x7” and 17x8”

Winterizing Tips from WT Roadsters

 

Winter is coming up quick. Bill Thomas was kind enough to put together a list of items he does with his Elise, Triumph, and supercool motorbikes:

• Wash and if possible wax/detail vehicle. Make sure the vehicle is completely dry before permanent parking. If it is not possible to wash and/or detail the car then at a minimum it should be wiped down. Remove all items such as paper, food, etc. from the interior. The less clutter the better as this will help prevent rodents from wanting to move in.

• If the vehicle is to be stored throughout the winter without any chance of being driven, inflate all tires to 5 psi above maximum inflation pressure stated on the tire sidewall. This will help reduce flat-spotting of tires during extended immobilized storage. You can go one step further in preventing flat spots by parking vehicles on dense rubber pads large enough to cover the contact patch of tire. A 12''x12'' square one to two inches thick at each wheel is sufficient.

• Change oil and filter if possible. Clean oil sitting in the cooler(s), filter, and sump for upwards of six months is better than dirty oil!!!

• The fuel tank should be completely full. This will prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tank walls should there be a rapid change in temperature and humidity.

• Check all fluid levels (coolant, brake, clutch, wiper reservoir) and adjust levels as required. Be sure to verify freeze protection of coolant/antifreeze solution in both the engine and windshield reservoir.

• Remove the battery from the vehicle and store it in a warm, dry climate utilizing a battery tender. Make sure windows are fully closed first. If a warm, dry area is not available such as a basement or garage, place the battery on a wood plank with tender attached. The wood will act as an insulator between the ice-cold floor of an unheated garage and the battery. The current flow created by the battery tender will generate a slight amount of heat in the battery. This is a good thing and will help prevent freezing.

• If the storage area has a tendency to become damp or experience rapid temperature and humidity changes (an uninstalled garage is a good example) you should spray a light mist of WD-40 or silicone in the engine bay completely covering everything. This will prevent corrosion on some of the aluminum and steel engine-related parts (ECU, Air Flow Meter, misc. fittings, and fixtures). Do not overdo it with the spray. Make it shine, not drip!!

• Once you have completed the checklist, your final task will be to cover the car with a soft, quality car cover. It should be able to 'breath', meaning that moisture can pass from the vehicle surface through the cover fibers to the atmosphere. This will help protect paint and trim from staining should the cover get wet or surface condensate.

• Finally, if the vehicle is accessible during the storage period, you may check its well-being as often as you care to. I have stored vehicles for 8-12 month stretches without any problems.

• One final important tip: DO NOT start the car and let it run for a few minutes at a time sporadically throughout the storage period. I know many people out there think this is a good idea but it is not. This practice will rapidly contaminate the engine oil and fill your exhaust with condensation (water!). BAD, VERY BAD!

Thx to Bill Thomas, WT Roadsters, NJ InoKinetic Authorized Dealer & Katana Installer (908) 313-4482 or info@wtroadsters.com

shiftR111 Installation & Adjustment Tips Video

CLICK TO WATCH OUR VIDEO: HERE

111RS SPYDER @ West Coast Lotus Meet

We brought the Spyder to Folsom, CA for the biannual West Coast Lotus Meet. This event moves around on the west coast and I have been attending it since 2004. It is a fun gathering with driving events, concourse, and social events to keep everyone entertained and drinking the Lotus Kool-aid.

Stacy and I had a great time driving in the back roads.

We drove the car on backcountry roads that have a mix of rough and smooth pavement. It was a group drive and we drove in a spirited manner - as the Lotus are designed to do. Wind buffeting was not an issue. We started with helmets on but I removed mine at mid-day. Even at freeway speeds, it was comfortable with no helmet. Yes, you can carry on a conversation. The weather was cold and a bit of drizzle yet we were comfortable. I would not hesitate to drive this car on a long road trip - but I am the guy who drove an Ariel Atom from SoCal to Tulsa!

Hanging out in the city of Lotus

Dynamically the Spyder proved to be a blast. The handling was excellent and the ride quality was totally acceptable to Stacy - who is not as hardcore as I. In fact, she gets motion sickness yet was totally comfortable - even on some of the rough roads we drove. I am a big believer in the DNA rear swaybar and soft spring rates that we are running on this car. We developed this combination a couple of years ago and I have been enjoying this on my street Elise ever since. Lotus suspension philosophy pushes soft springs but we Americans like flat handling - so we feel our combination strikes the right balance.

At the winery for lunch

The sound from the supercharger and exhaust were excellent. Our sonicFURY is winning over more and more Lotus owners thanks to its drone-free operation. It really has a Jekyll and Hyde personality! The shiftR111 package with our new naked center console makes shifting a real pleasure. The styling of the center console was also a big hit. We plan to introduce this item later this Summer. The brakes were something we downsized from the stock 4 piston S240 brakes. We installed the standard 2 piston calipers at the front so we could run a 15” front wheel. This car weighed in at 1950lbs full of fluids so we felt the smaller brakes would be more than adequate. A big brake kit is not needed as we are running our 2-piece ULTRAdiscs, Motul fluid, and aggressive G-loc pads. She stopped on a dime.

Concours event was held in old town, Folsom. It was a great venue with many beautiful cars on display

Aesthetics are subjective. The styling of the Spyder was well received. We had great responses with many Lotus club members giving us positive marks. The long tail and rear flares were noted by many but some did not notice it until I pointed them out. I was happy that these details were still somewhat subtle and not as obvious. Ultimately we won Best of Show at the concours so we proved to be a favorite. This felt great after all the hard work we put into making this a special Lotus.

A great result for a heck of a lot of work!

111RS SPYDER BUILD: PART 11

 We managed to complete the Spyder in time for the West Coast Lotus Meet. Of course, there were a thousand small details to sort but Jesus, Carlos, Damian, and Christina got it done. In the final days, I had to make a quick trip business trip but when I came back the 111RS was strapped into the trailer, ready to go to WCLM. The team got it done!

Here are a few of the final details we executed:

We completed the paint scheme/livery. This was all paint and NOT a wrap.

We changed the Takata belts - Thx HMS Motorsport for our last-minute color change!

We installed side scoops and the side view mirrors

Tidied up the interior and add a fire extinguisher.

Lights were installed along with tow hooks and the front spoiler with custom pinstripe

111RS SPYDER BUILD: PART 10

We still needed to fit the bodywork. Lotus use shims/spacers and other tactics to fit their bodywork. We used every trick possible to get our car looking good. We also aligned the car and set the ride height to an acceptable height for rough canyon use. We were tempted to go lower because it looks more sinister but we have always put function before form so…heck we installed 15” front wheels on this car!

Over the years I have had some fun with stripes. I think it may stem from the 10yrs I spent at 3M Automotive - makers of the screaming chicken decal found on the hood of many TransAms… Here is one of the favorites schemes.

We needed to start work on the stripe scheme. The images below show some ideas we played with. Of course, the final design will remain secret until we unveil the car at WCLM.

Here are some ideas that we played around with…

111RS SPYDER BUILD: PART 9

The ProAlloy Chargecooler install proved to be a straightforward job that required some creativity and fabrication. We had to rethink the location of the tank as we are keeping the emissions-related charcoal canister. Additionally, it required some clam cutting to get the IC tubes plumbed and a special bracket to support the charge cooler. Luckily creative solutions are in our DNA…

Fitting the hardware and plumbing

Once we completed this installation, we fired it up. Nice to hear it start!

The guys over at HMW Motorsport provided us a set of Takata ASM belts for use in the Spyder. I want to thank them for their generosity. They bolt in with the S111 Hardware just like the Schroth belts that we are accustomed to fitting to the Lotus - probably because Schroth owns Takata! The Spyder is getting a 4pt system on the passenger side and a full 6pt on the driver's side. We painted the front surface of the CF Big Bottom Seat that we fitted for an extra custom look. Note the stripe of carbon running down the side. Very cool and very comfortable!